Masala Theory – a genuine “Neo” Indian experience

By Shashikanth Narasimhiah

There is nothing theoretical about this Masala Theory restaurant which serves “Neo” Indian food. Everything you see would be very typically practical – Indian type of being practical. This is a relatively new restaurant– not just in terms of when it was established but also in terms of its theme, ambience and menu. When you enter this place on Crown St in Surry Hills, for a moment you will forget that you are in Sydney. This has the same ambience of an upmarket restaurant in Mumbai frequented by the post-Millennials.

The word “Neo” has been used to describe this place which is appropriate given that the place has been modelled on current day hip, modern, confident and outgoing Indian urbanites. The wall painting is a deliberately rugged. The murals on the walls inside the restaurant which sport the typical black Mumbai Premier Padmini taxis, the modern girls in smart saree and sun glasses justify the “Neo” Indian theme of this restaurant. The murals also include the three sisters which highlights the Sydney connection. However, the restaurant does not seem to forget the Indian past with the exhibition of the typical multi deck stainless steel “tiffin careers” hung from the walls, photos of auto rickshaws and an actual old model bicycle. The restaurant plays western music in recognition of Neo Indians as well as the majority local patrons. There are several famous quotes all over the walls including in the restrooms with one which says “Welcome customer we serve fresh food“.

The menu is very different to what we encounter in any typical Sydney Indian restaurant. For starters it is a fusion all-Indian menu with items representing dishes from all over India. Some of the dishes such as the “Masala Theory’s Three Sisters”Chatre  present a clever fusion of India and Australia too. You should definitely try the famous Mumbai Vada-Paav which comes in black colour with the use of edible charcoal along with two  fried green chillies. The traditional Daal which the menu calls “Theory of Daal” is not traditional after all – it comes with a sprinkling of hot fried curd chilli pieces on top!! But the pick of the dish for me surely was the “Curry Bombs” which is a different type of Pani Puri. This comes in vegetarian as well as chicken versions. You should definitely try this. This is the only Indian restaurant I have come across where the word Vindaloo is not even on the menu. In addition, true to the Indian Hindu tradition this place does not serve any beef dish. This much information on the Menu should be just enough to spark your curiosity – the rest is best experienced firsthand when you visit the place.

I had the opportunity of visiting the busy kitchen which is big enough for the big parties –plenty of which keep happening at this place which has an over-all capacity to accommodate up to 70 guests. The restaurant uses a traditional charcoal tandoor and can easily cater to the needs of big parties. There are a few spots available in the front portico facing East which would be very pleasant during the summer day evenings.

The bar at the back end of the restaurant can provide many different types of beers but only one on tap. Which is it? You guessed it –the very Indian Kingfisher!! In addition to beer, of course you can have other variety of alcohol too as also the typical Indian soft drinks such as Lassi.

The celebrity guest list includes the famous cricketer Kevin Peterson who has written his very positive feedback on the wall. Similar feedback from Mugdha Ghodse can also be seen on the wall.

I met with the owner Yashpal Erda who is himself a “Neo” Indian. He is very proud and passionate about his Indian heritage and sets a great example in customer service by being a role model. The restaurant has a total strength of 14 staff including those who prepare the tasty food. In addition to on-site dining, the restaurant also provides outdoor catering services for parties, functions, weddings and the like.

To conclude, I have been to many Indian restaurants in Australia but the dining experience in this “Neo” Indian restaurant is sure to be very different – the major one being – you actually get a complete Indian experience here and not just Indian food. The customer service, as I sat and watched for an hour, is very personalised and homely while being professional.